BELFAST

"BELFAST, a parish, seaport, post, and market town, a municipal and parliamentary borough, and head of a Poor-law Union, in the baronies of Upper and Lower Belfast, in the county of Antrim, with the suburb of Ballymacarrett, in the parish of the same name, in the county of Down, province of Ulster, Ireland, 14 miles to the S.E. of Antrim, or 22 miles by railway, and 101 miles to the N. of Dublin, or 112 miles by railway. The borough is partly in the parish of Shankill and is situated at the south extremity of Belfast Lough, at the mouth of the river Lagan, in 54° 36' N. lat., and 5° 55' W. long.

Belfast is the principal commercial town in Ireland, the capital of the province of Ulster, and now the county town of Antrim, in place of Carrickfergus, which formerly held that rank. As early as the 12th century a fortified station appears to have existed near the mouth of the river Lagan, and before the commencement of the 14th century a town must have grown up there, for in 1316 the town and castle were attacked and destroyed by Edward Bruce. The place was not recovered by the English for about two centuries. In the reign of Henry VIII. the town and castle were granted to Hugh Mac Nial Oge on certain conditions, which being violated by the O'Nials, in the reign of James I., they reverted to the crown. In 1604 they were conferred on Sir Arthur Chichester, then lord-deputy. From this period the town began to rise rapidly into importance, and by the year 1611 had acquired sufficient wealth to obtain from James I. a charter of incorporation, erecting it into a municipal and parliamentary borough, having the privilege of sending two members to the Irish parliament; 26 years later, on the breaking up of the port monopolies of Carrickfergus, it became the principal commercial entrepot of the English Plantation in Ulster, and the seat of the custom-house. Its progress and improvement were suspended by the Civil War, in which the inhabitants took first the side of the parliament, and subsequently that of the king. They were mostly Presbyterians, and the expression of their feeling on the execution of Charles drew from Milton a severe reply. Belfast warmly espoused the cause of the Prince of Orange, and proclaimed him king. He spent some days here before his march to the Boyne, and was so well satisfied with his reception that he granted £1,200 per annum from the coffers of the State to the Presbyterian ministers of Ulster. This was the origin of the larger endowment called the Reyium Donum. Belfast stands on an extensive level tract on the western bank of the river Lagan, where it falls into Belfast Lough. It is not more than a few feet above high-water mark, and was once a mere marsh, frequently covered by the river. The situation is considered healthy, and the surrounding scenery is beautiful and diversified. The valley of the Lagan is bounded to the westward by a fine range of hills, some of which rise to the height of 1,000 feet. Divis, a mountain on the north-west, is above 1,500 feet in height. The neighbourhood of the town, both along the shores of the lough, and the banks of the river, as well as up the sides of the hills, is adorned with numerous villas and residences, gardens, and pretty villages. The general aspect of the town bespeaks activity and prosperity, and the number of fine mansions and villas in the vicinity attest the wealth and taste of the inhabitants, though, from its low situation, it cannot be considered as striking. There are many spacious and handsome streets, squares, and terraces, with numerous public buildings, testifying, not only the mercantile importance of the place, but its connections with science, literature, art, and education. It is lighted with gas, and well supplied with water. The Lagan is crossed by three bridges,-one called the Queen's bridge, a short distance above the mouth of the river, connecting the town with the suburb of Ballymacarrett. It is a handsome structure of five arches, and was erected in 1841 on the site of a bridge of 21 arches, built in 1686, which had become unsafe, and was taken down. The breadth of the river is here about 250 yards, and the new bridge cost £27,000. Higher up, and connecting the south quarter of the town with the neighbouring county, is New bridge, which was built in 1831. Outside the town, in the suburb of Malone, the river is crossed by a third bridge. The mercantile quarter of the town lies on and near the quays; the manufacturing quarter is that on the north and west sides of the town; and the principal commercial establishments are in High-street, Bridge-street, Donegal-place, and their vicinity. The quays extend about a mile below Queen's budge, and consist of Custom-house quay, Chichester quay, Limekiln dock, Donegal quay, Ritchie's dock, the Ballast Corporation dock, the Clarendon dock, and Dunbar's dock. The principal street is High-street, leading to High-street dock. It is the oldest and one of the most spacious streets in the town. Castle-place is its continuation. Donegal-place, a range of handsome buildings, leads from High-street to Donegal-square, the site of the White Linen Hall, a spacious building erected in 1785. Half a mile westward is College-square. The Commercial-buildings, a spacious block of houses at the south end of Donegal-street, have a granite front with eight Ionic columns, and comprise a hotel, a news-room, an assembly-room, and various offices. The news-room is also used as an exchange. The buildings were erected in 1822, at a cost of above £20,000. Opposite this pile is the Old Exchange, lately reconstructed, and converted into a banking-house. The custom-house, a handsome structure of stone recently erected, in the Italian style, stands on Donegal quay, along which is a spacious esplanade nearly a quarter of a mile in length, where the steam navy and West India traders of the port have their station. From Donegal and College squares, the leading roads southward conduct to the new town of Malone, which stands on rising ground, between the Old Dublin-road and the river. The prominent feature in this district is the new Queen's College, a beautiful and picturesque pile of brick and stone, in the Tudor collegiate style, which occupies a commanding site, in the midst of villas and park scenery, adjoining the Botanic Gardens. The barracks, accommodating a regiment of infantry and a troop of horse, are on the high grounds north of the town. Westward of the barracks are the gaol and the court-house, both of recent erection; the former a handsome pile, covering five acres, and arranged on the separate principle; the latter a fine edifice, with a Corinthian portico. The theatre is in Arthur-street; the house of correction in Howard-street; the natural history museum and the Royal Academical Institution are in College-square. In the same neighbourhood is the Union poorhouse.

The terminus of the Ulster railway is in the New Dublin-road, near College square; that of the Belfast and Ballymena, in York-street; and that of the Belfast and County Down, at Ballymacarrett. There is a branch line to Carrickfergus, and also a short line to Holywood. At Portadown the Ulster railway crosses the Dublin and Belfast Junction line. The Lagan navigation connects Belfast with Lough Neagh and the Ulster canal and Newry canal, by a line of water carriage of 282 miles

The staple business of Belfast is the linen and cotton manufactures, of which it is the principal seat in Ireland, the former introduced in 1808, and the latter in 1777. To form a just estimate of the importance of these manufactures, it should be remembered that only a century ago, in 1760, the population of Belfast was under 9,000, and that there are now above 18,000 persons engaged in spinning linen yarn alone, which is carried on in about 30 steam-mills. All varieties of linen, damasks, sheetings, diapers, &c., are made here, and are justly celebrated for their durability and excellence. There are five extensive cotton-mills, in which velvets, fustians, jeans, ticking, ginghams, calico, muslin, &c., are manufactured. The flax-spinning manufacture has grown into great importance, employing now, in the town and its vicinity, 500,000 spindles. Calico-printing, bleaching, and dyeing are carried on on a large scale. There are 10 or 12 bleach-grounds within the parish. Other large and important establishments are the iron-foundries and manufactories for machinery, chemical works, glass-works, distilleries, extensive breweries, flour-mills, tanneries, &c. The making of ropes and sailcloth also employs many persons. Shipbuilding was introduced about 1792, and has grown into an important branch of business, carried on in five ship-yards. The port of Belfast, now ranking second in Ireland, was subordinate to Carrickfergus till nearly the middle of the 17th century. In 1700 there were not more than five vessels of .small burden belonging to it, and its customs amounted, several years later, to not more than £1,200. In 1786 the commerce had increased to 772 vessels entered inwards and outwards, with an aggregate tonnage of 34,287 tons. After the establishment of the linen manufacture its trade rapidly increased; and the introduction of steamboats, about 1824, gave it still further extension. Since 1835 there is no accurate return of the value of the imports and exports, but in that year the imports were £3,695,438, and the exports were £4,341,794. They are now probably double; and the number of vessels registered as belonging to the port vary in the last ten years from 450 to 460, with an average tonnage of 80,000 tons. The foreign commerce is chiefly with the United States, the Mediterranean, and the Baltic; the colonial, with British North America, West Indies, &c. It has also a very extensive and important coasting and cross-channel trade, about 30 steamers being regularly engaged in plying between Belfast and the chief ports of Great Britain. The imports consist principally of linen yarn, woollens, cotton, coals, flax-seed, hemp, tallow, timber, &c.; and the exports, of corn, flour, linen and cotton manufactured goods, provisions, eggs, flax, &c.

The lough, about 12 miles in length, 6 miles broad at the entrance, and having an average breadth of 4 miles, forms one of the safest and best harbours in the world. The port and harbour are under the management of a corporation constituted in 1831, when the old Ballast Board was abolished. Great improvements have been made in the harbour by the formation of docks and quays, and by cutting a deep channel from the quays to Garmoyle, 3 miles distant. In this cut, which is 200 yards wide, there is never less than 9 feet of water; and at high water of spring tides, vessels drawing 18 feet can approach the quays. In the process of deepening the channel, three islands have been formed; the largest, named Queen's Island, has been planted and laid out in public walks, and a building of iron and glass erected within it for holding bazaars, &c. A lighthouse has also been erected at Garmoyle; it is of wood, and is supported on piles about 30 feet above the level of high water. Donaghadee and Larne are subordinate ports to Belfast. A magnificent building for the Harbour Commissioners' offices has been erected, in the Italian style, with a fine tower, fronting the Clarendon dock.

Under the Reform Act the borough is divided into five wards or municipal districts, and is governed by a mayor, 10 aldermen, and 30 councillors. It returned two members to the Irish Parliament from 1613 till the Union; one member to the Imperial Parliament from that time to the passing of the Reform Act, since which it has returned two. The suburb of Ballymacarrett, in the county of Down, is included within the limits of the borough, which comprises, according to the census of 1861, 18,466 inhabited houses, with a population of 119, 718, of whom 29,391 are returned as belonging to the Established Church; 40,700 are Roman Catholics; 43,290 Presbyterians; 4,918 Methodists; 356 Independents; 205 Baptists; 218 are of the Society of Friends; 11 Jews; and 269 of other denominations.

A committee, appointed by the corporation, has the management of the paving, lighting, and cleansing of the town. The water-works are under the control of an incorporated company. Belfast is a coastguard and chief police station, the head-quarters of the north military district and of the county militia, and the head of a Poor-Law Union and of custom and excise districts. The assizes, formerly held at Carrickfergus, have been held here since 1850. Quarter sessions for the county are held here in rotation with four other towns. Petty sessions for the borough are held daily, and general sessions once a quarter. Nine weekly newspapers are published in the town. Belfast gives the titles of earl and baron to the Chichesters, Marquises of Donegal.

The living is a vicarage in the diocese of Down, Connor, and Dromore, of the value of £504, in the patronage of the Marquis of Donegal. The parish church, which stands in Donegal-street, was built in 1778 by the Marquis of Donegal, and is dedicated to St. Anne. It is of Grecian architecture, with a tower, cupola covered with copper, and a wooden spire. The old portico has been removed, and a new one erected, not in harmony with the rest of the building. The living of St. George's is a curacy, value £114, in the patronage of the vicar. The church, situated in High-street, stands on the site of an ancient castle. It is chiefly remarkable for its fine Corinthian portico, originally part of the palace built at Ballyscullion by the Earl of Bristol, Bishop of Derry, and removed hither on the taking down of the palace. The livings of Christ Church, St. Matthew, and St. John, are also curacies, in the patronage of the vicar. There are several other churches of the Establishment. Belfast is the seat of the Roman Catholic see of Down and Connor, and the residence of the bishop. The cathedral, an elegant structure in the form of a cross, and in the perpendicular style of architecture, is situated on the south side of the town. It is dedicated to St. Malachi. The Roman Catholics have three other places of worship in the town. There are 18 belonging to the Presbyterians, several of which are large and handsome edifices; eight to the different sections of Methodists; three to the Unitarians; and others to the Baptists, Independents, Society of Friends, and Mormonites. Belfast is the seat of a presbytery.

The educational, literary, and scientific institutions of Belfast are numerous and important. At their head is the Queen's College, founded under an Act passed in 1845, and opened in November, 1849. The buildings are in the Tudor style, and form the chief architectural ornament of the town. They occupy a good situation in the south suburbs, and, with the grounds belonging to them, cover an area of 10 acres. They comprise a large hall, several lecture rooms, a laboratory, museum, and library. A botanic garden is connected with the college. The college is under the government of a president and vice-president, with 20 professors in the various departments of arts, medicine, and law. Above 50 scholarships are founded, of which 10 are senior, of £40 each. The Presbyterian College, situated in University-square, is a handsome structure, completed in 1853. The Royal Academical Institution, an elegant pile, occupying one side of College-square, was founded in 1810. Its cost was defrayed by subscriptions, amounting to £25,000. The institution includes a college and a school, and is under the control of boards of managers and visitors. It has about 400 students, and is partly supported by a government grant. The Belfast Academy, in Donegal-street, founded by Dr. Crombie in 1786, is under the management of a principal and trustees, with teachers of the classics, mathematics, logic, history, &c. A model training school has been recently erected in the Falls-road, in the Elizabethan style of architecture. There are also a school of design, many private, and about 30 National schools.

The principal literary and scientific institutions are, the Society for promoting Knowledge, founded in 1788, with a good library, &c.; the Literary Society, founded in 1801; the Historic Society, in 1811; the Natural History Society, in 1821, with a good museum; the Botanic Gardens, formed in 1827, by members of the last-named society, occupying a pleasant site on the Lagan, in the suburbs of Malone; two medical societies; the Royal Society for the Promotion of the Growth of Flax in Ireland, established in 1841; and the Anacreontic Society, which holds its meetings in the music-hall. Among the charitable institutions of Belfast are the following:-the Incorporated Poorhouse, for the maintenance of the aged and infirm poor and their children, supported by subscription-the building stands at the head of Donegal-street; the House of Industry, situated in Smithfield; the Fever Hospital and Dispensary, in Frederick-street; the Lying-in Hospital, in the Antrim-road, founded in 1794; the District Lunatic Asylum, on the Falls-road, erected in 1829, a handsome range of buildings with extensive grounds; the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb and Blind, erected by subscription in 1845, and situated on the Lisburn-road; the Female Penitentiary, and several other benevolent societies. There is a savings-bank, which was established in 1816. Within the parish of Belfast are remains of several ancient forts, ramparts, and chapels. At Wolf Hill are some curious caves, cut in the earth, and at Cave Hill are three, cut in the basalt cliff, one above another. On the top of the same hill, 1,140 feet in height, is a rampart called MacArt's Fort. Several cairns are found, two of which are on the Black Mountain, and various relics of ancient times have been discovered near them. To the south of the town, on the banks of the Lagan, is Ormeau, the seat of the Marquis of Donegal. There are numerous seats of the gentry in the environs of the town. Belfast was the birthplace of Dr. Black, the distinguished chemist; of Patrick Macdowell, the sculptor; and of Sir J. Emerson Tennent, author of "Ceylon." In this town was printed, in 1704, the first English Bible published in Ireland; and in 1737, the Belfast Newsletter, the earliest newspaper published in the north of Ireland. The principal market is held on Friday. The marketplaces are Castle-place, Mary's, and Smithfield. Sales take place in the Brown Linen Hall on Tuesday and Friday. Horse-fairs are held on the 12th August and 9th November, besides a fair on the first Wednesday of each month."

"KNOCK, a village in the parish of Belfast, county Antrim, Ireland, 2¾ miles from Belfast, by the Belfast and County Down railway, on which it is a station."

[Transcribed from The National Gazetteer of Great Britain and Ireland 1868]
by Colin Hinson ©2018