MUCH WENLOCK: Geographical and Historical information from the year 1824.

"MUCH WENLOCK, a parish in the franchise of Wenlock, a vicarage discharged, in the diocese of Hereford, the deanery of Wenlock, and archdeaconry of Salop. 481 houses, 2,200 inhabitants. 12 miles south- east of Shrewsbury, 148 miles north- west of London. LONG. 2, 39 W. LAT. 52, 37½ N.

The town is ill built, consisting only of two streets, but is a very ancient corporation, and is said to have been the first town that sent members to parliament, by a writ from Edward the Fourth in 1478, when it sent one member; but now, together with Broseley and Little Wenlock, it returns two. The free burgesses, who are the electors, amount to one hundred and ten.

The corporation, by charter from Charles the first, consists of a bailiff, recorder, two justices of the peace, and twelve capital burgesses.

Wenlock gives name to a deanery, and to that part of the hundred, which in Doomsday Book is called Patinterne Hundred. The British name is Llan Meilein, or St. Milburg's church. In the reign of Richard the second, this place was as famous for copper mines, as it is at present for quarries of lime-stone. Leland describes it as 'a markett towne, where was an abbey of blak monkes, passing over an high hille, called Wenlock Edge.' But Wenlock owes its celebrity principally to the remains of an ancient ABBEY, subsequently converted to a MONASTERY for CLUNIACS.

This house was, as it is said, founded about the year 680, by Milburga, daughter of King Merwald, and niece to Wolphere, King of Mercia; she presided as abbess over it, and at her death was buried there. According to Matthew of Westminster, her grave was long after discovered by accident, when many miracles were performed. The monastery was destroyed by the Danes, but restored by Leofric, Earl of Chester, in the time of Edward the confessor; but again falling into decay, and being forsaken, it was, in the fourteenth of William the conqueror, rebuilt and endowed by Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Arundel, Chichester, and Shrewsbury, a person of vast possessions in those parts, so says William of Malmsbury; but both Brompton and Leland attribute its restoration to Warine, Earl of Shrewsbury.

This last refounder (whoever be was) placed therein a prior and convent of Cluniac monks, who were looked upon as a cell of the house de Caritate, in France; and suffered the same fate with other alien priories till the 18th of Richard the Second, when it was made indigenous, or naturalized. In Rymer this is called the second house of the order; but Prynne mentions it as a cell to the abbey of Cluni. It was dedicated to St. Milburga, and, at the 26th of Henry the Eighth, had revenues to the yearly value of £401. 7d. q. clear according to Dugdale, and £434. 1s 2d, ob. in the whole. It was granted thirty sixth of Henry the eighth, to Augustino de Augustini. This monastery was first called Wimnicas, but in after times its legal style was Wenlock Magna, or Moche Wenlock.

In the Monasticon is the patent of King Edward the third, reciting and confirming the charter of Isabel de Say, Lady of Clun, whereby she granted to these monks the church of St. George, at Clun, with seven chapels depending on it; namely the chapel of St. Thomas, in Clun; of St Mary, at Waterdune; of St. Swithin, at Clumbierie; St. Mary, at Clintune; St. Mary, at Appitune; with those of Eggedune and Subbledune. There is likewise an inquisition, taken the twenty ninth of Edward the first, determining the right of presentation to the cell of Ferne to be in the monks of Wenlock.

In Stevens's Supplement, seven deeds are translated into English from the Latin originals, in the hands of Francis Canning, of Foxcote, Esq. in the county of Warwick, viz. the deed of Geoffrey de Say, for the manner of Dointum; a confirmation of that deed by Henry the Second; another deed of the same king, granting that these monks might always enjoy the said manor, unless he and his heirs gave them eleven pounds per annum, in churches or other things, in lieu of it; the charter of Henry the Third to them for the said manor, anno regni, 46. p. 15. The deeds of William Mitleton and Adam Fitzwilliam, about a yard-land in Mitleton. A composition between Simon, Dean of Brug, and the prior and convent of Wenlock, about the chapel of Dudinton.

GERVAS PAGANEL, pursuant to his father's design, founded at Dudley, in Staffordshire, anno 1161, a priory for the invocation of St. James, for the monks of St. Milburga, of Wenlock, giving them the ground on which the said church of St. James stood, as also the church of St. Edmond and St. Thomas, at Dudley, and those of Norkphel, Segesle, Ingepoune, and Bradvil, with the tithe of his bread, game, and fish, as long as he resided at Dudley, or at Herden; also grazing, wood, and divers other privileges. This house was always considered as a cell to Wenlock, and after the Dissolution, its lands were granted as a parcel thereof.

The following list of priors is collected from Browne Willis's History of Abbeys, and his Series of Principals of Religious Houses, printed in Tanner's Notitia; and from the former are taken the sums that remained in charge.

Imbertus, prior about the year 1145, Peter de Leja, promoted from this dignity, anno 1176, to the see of St. David's, Joybertus occurs Prior anno 1198, he was also prior of Daventry and Coventry. Richard, elected 1221. Guycardes 1265, Arno de Montibus, 1270, who was succeeded in 1272, by John de Tyeford. John Turbe occurs Prior in the beginning of the reign of Edward the First, about the year 1277. His successor was Henry de Bonville, anno 1291 and 1297; Henry elected 1326; Henry de Myons elected 1363; Roger Wyvel 1395; John Stafford 1422; William Brugge, on whose resignation anno 1437, 16th of Henry the Sixth, Roger Barry was admitted prior; William Walwyn elected 1462; John Stratton elected 1468; John Shrewsbury elected 1479; Thomas Sutbury elected 1482; Richard Wenlock 1485; Richard Singar-Rowland Graceful, elected 1521; John Cressage, alias Bayliss, who, surrendering this convent January 26th, 1539, had a pension assigned him of £80 per annum. Anno 1563, here remained in charge £7 13s. 4d. in fees, and £75 10s. 6d. in annuities and corrodies; and these pensions namely, to Richard Fennymore and William Benge, £6 each. William Morphew, John Leighe, Thomas Balle, and John Hopkins, £5 6s. 8d. each. The arms of this monastery were azure three garbs, or, in a pale a croisier argent.

The rich Cluniac Monastery of Wenlock is situated in a low valley, on the south side of the town, adjoining the east end of the church- yard. Towards the country it is surrounded with gentle eminences, now bare indeed, but once, no doubt covered with wood. The entrance from the town was by a strong gate-way, one massive tower of which is now standing. Very considerable fragments still remain, especially of the church: of this a large portion of the south side of the nave, the whole south wing of the transept, several arches of the north, and the foundations of the choir and Lady Chapel still appear. The church was a very spacious and magnificent fabrick. It is evident from the vestiges yet existing, that this structure was of the pure early Gothick of the thirteenth century. The west front consisted of a large triplet lancet window, as may be determined from the style of the jamb of one of the lights, still to be traced, with its slender round shafts; and deep mouldings bound with rings. The ornamental parts of this front were composed of several tiers of small arches with trefoil heads, in the manner of those of Salisbury, Wells, &c. Underneath are the outlines of the great door of entrance, which appears to have been deeply recessed; but the pillars and ribs of the arch are gone. The fragment of the south side of the nave consists of three pointed arches, which have never been open; but within them are inserted lower arches of a similar form on octagonal pillars which originally communicated with the south-side aisle. Over the higher arches are the remains of a beautiful gallery, which ran along the whole second story of the church, and consisted of a series of two pointed arches, divided by slender clustered pillars, within the span of each greater arch below: above these are single lancet windows, forming the clere-story. Between every arch runs a slender clustered pilaster, and, where they break off at the top, are remains of the ramifications of a groined ceiling. Part of the south side aisle is now a stable; it has a plain groined roof, and over it is a large vaulted chamber of the same size. This room probably adjoined to the dormitory of the monks, and was occupied by those whose task it was to perform the midnight office in the choir. The south wing of the transept consisted of three pointed arches, with a gallery and clere-story, similar to those of the nave.

The lower members of two of the great columns which supported the centre steeple are visible, and appear to have been richly clustered. There are no other remains of the choir than the foundations of six pillars which are round. The Lady Chapel, or Chapel of the Virgin Mary, was eastward of the choir, and may be traced by its foundations, which seem to have been of a later date than the rest of the church. The dimensions of this stately abbey church prove it to have been inferior in size, as well as beauty, to most cathedrals. Whole length from east to west, 401 feet; of nave, 156; of space under middle tower, 39; choir, 156; Virgin Mary's chapel, 48 by 40; breadth of naves and aisles, 66. Adjoining the south side of the nave, was the great cloyster, which was encompassed by the refectory, dormitory, chapter-house, &c. Of the former, considerable, but imperfect, fragments remain. The whole shell of the chapter-house is standing, a most singular and curious specimen of early Norman architecture. It is an oblong square, 66 feet by 31. The entrance is by a rich round arched door, on each side of which is a broad round headed window. The walls are divided into three compartments on each side by short pilasters with indented capitals, from whence arises a groined roof. The portion of wall between these spaces has a stone seat below, and over it a series of interlaced arches arising from a row of small shafts, which arches rise one over the other in many tiers to the very roof.- South-eastward of the great cloister was the house or lodge of the prior, which seems to have inclosed a quadrangular court, now converted into a farm house. The buildings on the eastern and north sides are nearly entire, and were the living apartments of the prior. The whole eastern side has a singular cloister or ambulatory in front, consisting of very narrow pointed arches now open, but once evidently glazed and divided into an upper and lower story.- This leads to the principal rooms: two chambers in the upper story have been little altered; traces of ancient painting, particularly the figure of St. George, may be observed on the walls.- In one is a deeply recessed window, in which is a sort of stone trough, and a singular kind of gutter to carry off moisture, &c. Perhaps this may have been a lavatory.

Below is the prior's private oratory, now a dairy; the altar, a very fine slab of red stone, remains entire. Fragments of this opulent monastery are scattered to a great distance. The whole precinct including full thirty acres. This priory, with almost the whole of the town, is the property of Sir Watkin William Wynne, Bart.

Somewhat above half a century ago, a considerable part of the ruins were taken down by an agent of the manor to rebuild some houses of which he had a lease; but the late Sir Watkin William Wynne put a stop to any farther demolition. Here are no remarkable monuments nor inscriptions, neither have any such been dug up, although it is said that the body of King Merwald was found in a wall of the church.

The common people have an absurd tradition of a subterraneous communication between this house and Buildwas Abbey, which has not the least foundation in truth, the nature of the ground rendering such an attempt impracticable; but indeed there is scarcely an old monastery in England which has not had some such story told of it, especially if it was a convent of men, and had a nunnery in its neighbourhood. These reports were probably invented and propagated in order to exaggerate the dissolute lives of the monks and nuns, and thereby to reconcile the multitude to the suppression of religious houses.

This monastery and manor, soon after the Dissolution, came into the possession of Thomas Lawley, Esq., who lived in the house. By marriage with a Lawley it devolved to Robert Bertie, Esq., of the Ancaster family, and from him it passed into the family of Gage, but whether by marriage or purchase, Grose, whom we are now quoting, says he had not been able to learn. Sir John Wynn, of Wynnstay, in the county of Denbigh, bought it of Lord Viscount Gage, and devised it, with his other estates, to his kinsman, the late Sir Watkin William Wynne, Bart., whose son of the same name is the proprietor.

The parish church of Wenlock, a vicarage of the annual value of £12 9s. 7d. adjoining the ruinous priory, bears many marks of Saxon antiquity. A large round arch separates the nave of the church from the chancel: at the west end is a square tower, with circular headed windows, from which arises a very neat slender spire of wood, covered with lead. On the right of the altar are some Gothick niches; but there is no monument of sufficient antiquity or sculpture to attract the notice of the antiquary, though its interior is well fitted up

But, whatever deficiency there may be in this respect, as far as concerns the present church of Wenlock, the famous monastery, which we have just attempted to describe, has attached to it one of the most important instances of genealogical and biographical enquiry that has perhaps ever engaged the attention of readers curious in such matters.

The real origin of the royal family of the Stuarts has long perplexed the most ingenious and indefatigable genealogists; it is, therefore, with some satisfaction, that we are able to trace this renowned family to the county of Salop; a circumstance that cannot fail to yield some degree of pleasure to the natives of this district, whose high and noble spirit will prompt them to venerate the name, however their more enlightened views may induce them to reject the principles, of that illustrious house.

The several histories, particularly Symon's Historical Account, all trace this family to a Thane of Lochaber, who is said to have flourished in the ninth century; but Lord Hailes has demonstrated that these histories are all of them fabulous genealogies, without being able to determine, where, and what was the commencement of this family. This opinion is adopted by the late Andrew Stuart, who wrote the Genealogical History of the Stuarts; but he had not been able to make any advances, in the road of discovery, towards the true origin. Lord Hailes, however, acknowledges that Walter, who flourished under David the first, and Malcolm the fourth, was indeed the Steward of Scotland. But the question of what family was this Walter remains unanswered. He is known to historians only as Walter, the son of Alan; no satisfactory account having yet been given, (if we except the respectable author and indefatigable scholar, on whose authority we rely in this narrative) of who this Alan was. This, however, appears to be the only clue to the discovery in question if the genuine descent of Alan, the father of Walter, and the first of the Stuarts can be ascertained, the great difficulty is surmounted. We are of opinion, therefore, that by laying before our readers the very satisfactory account of this family, given by Dr. Chalmers, we shall render a service to genealogists, and considerably enrich our own work. I propose, says Mr. Chalmers, to show, from the most satisfactory evidence, that Walter, the son of Alan, came from Shropshire, in England; that he was the son of Alan, the son of Flaald, and the younger brother of William, the son of Alan, who was the progenitor of the famous house of Fitz-Alan, the Earls of Arundel. The great exploit of Walter, the son of Alan, was the founding of the monastery of Paisley, during the reign of Malcolm the fourth, by transplanting a colony of Cluniac monks from the monastery of Wenlock, in Shropshire. Such, then, was the connection of Walter, the first Stuart, with Shropshire, with Wenlock, with Isabel de Say, who married William, the brother of Walter. Alan, the son of Flaald, married the daughter of Warine, the famous sheriff of Shropshire, soon after the Norman conquest; and of this marriage William was the eldest son of Alan, and the undoubted heir, both of Alan and of Warine. Alan, the son of Flaald, a Norman, acquired the manor of Oswestry, soon after the conquest. Alan was undoubtedly a person of great consequence, at the accession of Henry the first. He was a frequent witness to the king's charters, with other eminent personages of that splendid court.

Mr. Chalmers next proceeds to prove the fraternal connection between William, the son of Alan, by a transaction, which had before been as new to history as it is singular in itself. We shall hereafter see that Oswestry, in Shropshire, was the original seat of Alan on the Welsh border. Clun, in the same county, was added to his family by the marriage of his son, William, who built Clun castle; and John Fitz-Alan, Lord of Clun and Oswestry, by marrying Isabel, the second sister of William de Albany, the third Earl of Arundel, who died in 1196, became Earl of Arundel, and changed his residence from Shropshire to Sussex.

Now Richard Fitz-Alan, the Earl of Arundel, being with Edward the third during the year 1335, and claiming to be Steward of Scotland by hereditary right, sold his title and claim to Edward the third, for a thousand marks, which purchase he had cautiously confirmed to him by Edward Baliol; but Richard Fitz-Alan had not any right to the Stewardship of Scotland: Walter, who was the first purchaser of this hereditary office, was the younger brother of William, the son of Alan, the progenitor of Richard Fitz-Alan, the claimant; and, till all the descendants of the first purchaser had failed, the claim could not ascend to the common father of the two families. But Robert, the Stuart, who was born of Margery Bruce, on the 2nd of March, 1315-16, and became King of Scots, on the 22nd of February, 1370-1, under the entail of the crown, was then in possession of the heriditary office of Steward, by lineal descent.

Walter, the son of Alan, undoubtedly obtained from David the first, and from Malcolm the fourth, great possessions, a high office, and extensive patronage. And, it may be reasonably asked, by what influence he could acquire, from two kings, so much opulence and such an office? David the first was a strenuous supporter of the claim of his niece, the Empress Maud, in her severe contest with Stephen. William, the brother of Walter, influenced by the Earl of Gloucester, the bastard son of Henry the first, and the powerful partisans of his sister, the Empress, seized Shrewsbury in September 1139, and held it for her interest. He attended her, with King David, at the siege of Winchester, in 1141, where they were overpowered by the Londoners, and obliged to flee. Such then, were the bonds of connection between David the first, and the sons of Alan, who were also patronized by the Earl of Gloucester. It was, probably, on that occasion, that Walter accompanied David into Scotland. William, the son of Alan, adhered steadily to the Empress, and was rewarded by Henry the second, for his attachment. Thus Walter, the son of Alan, could not have had more powerful protectors, than the Earl of Gloucester with David the first, and Henry the second with Malcolm the fourth.

When Walter, by those influences, obtained grants of Renfrew with other lands, and founded the monastery of Paisley, for Cluniac monks from Wenlock, he was followed by several persons from Shropshire, whom he enriched, and by whom he was supported. He married Eschina, of Moll, in Roxburghshire, by whom he had a son Alan, who succeeded him in his estates and office, when he died, in 1177. Six descents carried this family, by lineal transmissions, to Robert, the Steward, whose office, as we have already seen, was purchased by Edward the third, and became King of Scots in 1371. Walter, the son of Alan, was followed by his brother Simon, who was the progenitor of the family of Boyd, according to the genealogists; but it is not necessary to trace this matter further. Mr. Chalmers, both here and in his account of Renfrewshire, has treated, in the most satisfactory manner, the history of the Stuarts, whose blood as be observes, ran in a thousand channels."

" ACTON ROUND, a township in the parish of Much Wenlock, and in the Chelmarsh division of the hundred of Stottesdon. 3 miles south of Much Wenlock. 38 houses, 214 inhabitants."

" ATTERLEY, a township in the parish of Much Wenlock, and in the franchise of Wenlock, l mile south-east of Mach Wenlock."

" BURTON, a township and curacy in the parish of Much Wenlock, in the franchise of Wenlock, in the diocese, of Hereford, the deanery of Wenlock, and archdeaconry of Salop. 2½ miles south-west of Wenlock."

" CALLAUGHTON, a township in the parish of Much Wenlock, and in the franchise of Wenlock. l miles south of Weadock."

" HARLEY, a township in the parish of Much Wenlock, and in the franchise of Wenlock. See Wigwig and Harley."

" PRESTHOPE, a township in the parish of Much Wenlock, and in the franchise of Wenlock."

" WALTON, a township in the parish of Much Wenlock, and in the franchise of Wenlock."

" WIGWIG and HARLEY, a township in the parish of Much Wenlock, and in the franchise of Wenlock."

" WYKE and BRADLEY, a township in the parish of Much Wenlock, and in the franchise of Wenlock. 2½ miles northeast of Wenlock."

[Transcribed information from A Gazetteer of Shropshire - T Gregory - 1824](unless otherwise stated)

[Description(s) transcribed by Mel Lockie ©2015]